Purpose of the red LED on the 0F97190SRV

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tbonini
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Mon Jan 06, 2020 11:13 pm

Some flashing over speed indicator on my 04390-3 has caused me to replace the SRV. Mine has the obsolete 83049 and am in the process of replacing it with the updated 0F97190SRV. What is the purpose of the red LED near the trim pot? Is it a power indicator or a warning light?
Chris
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Mon Jan 06, 2020 11:40 pm

It indicates power being sensed by the AVR
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tbonini
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Tue Jan 07, 2020 8:00 am

Well, that confirms that the other AVR is defective and will be going back. It appears that the issue with the original one is a failing trim pot. Sweeping it around a few times seems to have got it working again but I really can't trust it at this point so I'll be ordering a new one later today.
Chris
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Tue Jan 07, 2020 10:01 am

I would not run the unit that way. If that trim pot fails, you could do some real damage in the house if the loads are connected to the generator.

Here is the link to our 83049 & 0F9719 replacement voltage regulator: https://shop.gentekpower.com/products/g ... ulator-avr :cool:
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tbonini
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Thu Jan 09, 2020 2:22 pm

The replacement AVR showed up today and is working fine. Now the Gen is putting out 247V at 62Hz no load and runs clean and smooth ans seems ready to go again when needed. Lets hope I can get another 10 or so years out of it if I don't upgrade sooner.
Chris
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Thu Jan 09, 2020 3:12 pm

Very glad to hear it! Thanks for following up with me :cool:
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tbonini
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Sat Jan 18, 2020 12:15 pm

Now the new AVR you sent me is doing exactly the same thing as the one I got from Amazon and it doesn't even have 10 minutes of run time on it. The only difference is the one you sent me actually worked when first installed where the Amazon one never did. When I first put the one I got from here in, it was working but out of adjustment as expected. After adjustment, everything looked good so I put it back together and ran it one more time in manual for a few minutes and everything looked good. I set it back to automatic mode and thought I was ready to go. Today, when the gen went into it's first exercise since the repair, it started up, ran for about 3 seconds, and shut right back down. I went outside and there was the flashing over speed again. Setting it to manual mode had the same results, a few seconds of run time and then shutdown with the flashing light. After removing the cover I can see that the new AVR LED is not lighting up, just like with the Amazon unit. I went to put the original AVR in as a test and discovered that I sent that one back to Amazon instead of the defective one that they sent me so now I have 2 dead AVR's and am SOL. The only luck I may have at all is that I just sent it back yesterday and contacted Amazon about getting it back to me so that I can return the correct one back to them. At least the old one was working to a point.

Is this a defective unit and if so, what is the return and exchange policy and if not, what could possibly cause the AVR to completely fail in less than 10 minutes of run time. I bumped the engine and tested the slip ring resistance multiple times and except for one reading a bit on the high side the average was around 24 ohms and the slip rings were cleaned and the brushes replaced about 6 months ago so I find it hard to believe that resistance is the issue. I hope someone can point me in a direction to look because this issue is really getting old.
Birken Vogt
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Sat Jan 18, 2020 1:30 pm

I had a new one be defective on a customer job a month or two ago, but IIRC it never worked from the get-go. Replaced it with another and still working AFAIK. Come to think of it I have had a few other new style fail in the past few years. Maybe there is a pattern developing here, don't know
Chris
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Sat Jan 18, 2020 2:08 pm

Lets do a test here and find out what's really going on... I doubt very much if you have this many AVR's that are all bad. I don't know if I've personally ever seen a bad one out of the package and I do sell a lot of them and have not heard anyone else say anything.

What we need to do is flash the field right when the unit fires up. My guess would be that the PCB isn't exciting the rotor each time it starts and thus, we are not making voltage. What you can do is take a piece of insulated wire long enough to reach from the battery positive post to the AVR's #4 wire. We want to apply 12V + power to the #4 wire as the unit is cranking and just fires up and then remove the wire once the unit is running and the LED is lit. My guess is that we will see the AVR start to work normally again until the next time the unit is shut down. I think a bit of residual magnetism is allowing you a few good starts and then when the unit sits, it doesn't work again. It's an easily fixed problem with a field boost kit though.
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tbonini
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Sat Jan 18, 2020 2:35 pm

hank you for getting back to me so quickly. I will try that a little later today and see what the results are. It wasn't really that many AVR however. My factory one just seemed to have a dirty pot because like I said before, when I swept it back and forth a few times, it seemed to have stabilized and was holding voltage. Unfortunately, I mixed it up with the defective one from Amazon and sent it back to them instead of the defective one. As for the new ones, the one from Amazon never worked and when I switched the wiring from the new one back to the old one, the gen started up and ran fine . The one I got from you worked after the gen was sitting for days waiting but just doesn't work now and I don't have the original anymore to compare it with so in reality, I only had one new one that worked and now doesn't.

A funny thing though, when you asked me where I got the other one from, I looked at Amazon to see what the price was just to compare it to yours and saw that the price was around $98.00. I remembered paying around $129.00 for it which really pissed me off until i did a little more looking and seeing that their shipping time also changed from 2 days to 3 to 5 weeks and this happened about a day after I purchased it. This leads me to believe that the one I got was the last one they had and may have been a returned unit itself and that they no longer stock this AVR and are just cross shipping from wherever it is being made which is usually done when sales are low or the defect level is too high. Does this newer AVR just have higher requirements than the original factory unit because like I said, when the first replacement was put in id didn't work (no red light) and all I did then was to reconnect the original unit without even removing the replacement unit and it went right back to operational and switching the wires right back to the replacement unit i was dead again. Which pin is the #4 wire. I know that it is written on the wire but those tiny numbers are just getting too hard for me to see anymore.
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