Auto transfer not transferring

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Fletch
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I had a blown fuse on the t1 in the transfer switch which was not charging the battery in the generator. Replaced fuse and now have 120volts AC from fuse to neutral bar. When I shut off main commercial power from street the generator turns on in 10-15 seconds ,, I hear a click in the transfer panel but the automatic arms/levers do not move ?? I can manually move the arms/lever and the power turns the house back on. I do have on the circuit board where the mechanism is 12volts on the positive and negative also have 12volts on transfer and the negative on the circuit board—model number is 0058701 for generator
Chris
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If you're hearing the click in the switch, that means the generator is doing what it's supposed to and telling the switch to move. The problem is either that you don't have 240V from the generator coming into the transfer switch, or you have a problem inside the switch itself. Could be a bad relay, loose wire, bad lower coil, etc.
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Fletch
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Can you test the relay ? Do you have to take off the cover panel ( my guess because you don’t see relay or motor / coil.

Also do you have a part number fir motor / coil and relay ?

Have the 240 volts coming back into home from generator
Chris
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All of it can be tested (and should so you're not throwing parts at it) but it involves testing 240V which can be dangerous and requires a good digital meter to do so.

If you don't feel confident it can be done safely, I would recommend you contact a local authorized Generac dealer.
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Fletch
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How do I test the transfer switch ?

T1 to neutral bar —120volts AC
N2 to neutral bar —120volts AC
N3 to neutral bar —120volts AC

One side of N2 to other side of N3 —240volts AC,, and One side of N3 to other side of N2 -240volts AC.

The stickers next to fuses state T1 120volts
Both neutral show on stickers 240volts.

I believe I have all the proper voltages and fuses were tested all good. But the arms of the transfer switch when a commercial power failure occurs they do not move to turn on breaker and shut off other breaker. I hear a very faint click about 10 seconds later when generator turns on.

It looks like I will have to take the transfer switch out of course kill power to panel and pull 7.4 amp out of generator. What is the transfer switch made of ??? Coil/relay switch
Chris
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Can you post a picture of this transfer switch inside?

Unless it's a commercial 3 phase switch, it won't have an N3 terminal, just N1 and N2. The faint click you're hearing is the transfer relay switching to generator power, so that will rule out the generator controls as the problem.
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Fletch
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Only N1 and N2 and T1
Fletch
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Like you stated if a slight click is heard then the nexus controller from generator is working properly. T1 to neutral bar in transfer panel is at 120volts AC ,, N1 to opposite side of N2 is 240volts AC and N2 to opposite Side of N1 is 240volts AC when generator is off. On right side of each fuse in regards to N1 and N2 testing to neutral bar I get 120volts AC. The circuit board attached to the transfer switch has 3 test points positive and negative shows 12Volts DC and the top position XFER to bottom negative of circuit board also shows 12Volts.

Am I testing the N1 and N2 correctly and if generator comes on does the testing of those 2 change ?
Chris
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If the generator is starting when power is turned off and you're hearing a click in side the transfer switch, the N1/N2 circuit and 23/194 circuit is working fine. Your problem is either in the transfer switch, or that you're not really getting 240V power from the generator on E1 and E2.
Generac tech for over 12 years. I'm here to help!
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Fletch
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I agree. I will check E1 and E2 when it auto starts Sunday at 2:30EST


I think the transfer switch is the issue will wait and see.

Thanks for all your help Chris
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