Generac 27K Quietsource Low Battery??

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jahern2000
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Sun Feb 10, 2019 6:35 pm

I have a 27K Quietsource genset that I'm having issues with. The unit was purchased in 2011, I had one issue with a starter motor which I replaced and the generator worked fine. The generator failed to start during a recent exercise run, the error was RPM loss. I figured the battery was the issue as it had not been changed since purchasing the unit. I replaced the battery and tried firing the genset. The genset tried to crank and then failed. At first I thought the starter relay was bad as the relay would fire and then fail. I then looked at the starter again, I thought perhaps the starter motor was hung up for frozen. I rapped the starter lightly with a hammer and tried running the genset and she fired up fine. I stopped and started the genset several times and figured everything was good. I checked the genset today as the exercise day is Saturday, same issue RPM loss. Now the status panel shows low battery? The battery is new, just purchased. If I short across the starter solenoid and positive the starter cranks the engine fine but no start. Not sure where to go from here? The low battery has me perplexed, is there a fuse that might have been blown during the starter motor replacement? One last thing, I noticed the sensor going into the flywheel housing has three wires, one of the wires appears to be burnt. There is a white PVC sleeve over the three individual wires, two wires look fine one is either intentionally bare or the PVC melted. I know there's a lot here, any ideas?

Respectfully
Chris
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Sun Feb 10, 2019 8:38 pm

It sounds like there is probably more than one issue going on here. There is generally a 25A ATO style fuse inline with the alternator which sends power up to parts of the controller that may have blew if something was grounded during the starter install. That would explain the Low Battery alarm you're seeing.

As far as the RPM Sense Loss alarm, that's probably the mag pickup giving you issues. The bare wire is normal and not melted. You can remove the mag pickup and check for metal debris on the end of the pin which will throw off the RPM sensing. Make sure when re-installing the mag pickup that it's not installed too far in or it will get killed by the flywheel...

You can test for resistance which should be right around 1K ohm (1000 ohms). DO NOT jam meter probes into the connector. You can use needle probe adapters or a tiny paperclip to use as a pin.

You mention that jumping the solenoid makes it crank but not start, that's totally normal, since the controller is what engages the governor, fuel, primer solenoid, etc...
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jahern2000
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Sun Feb 10, 2019 8:54 pm

Chris,
Thank you for the quick reply, I appreciate it. Living in SWFL we're out of season for now, but in a few months the generator will come in very handy. The genset was flawless during and post IRMA. Roughly where inline is the fuse you mentioned? I'll take a look and see tomorrow if that was blown. I made sure not to short anything but it could have happened. Also, I was wondering about the starter motor appearing to lock up. Have you ever heard of this issue? I'm wondering if the bendix is bad causing the starter gear to fail to retract after starting. I noticed there were no shims when I replaced the original starter. Could there be some binding? Just seems odd that a little tap on the starter motor with the hammer and the genset cranks and runs fine.

Jim
Chris
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Sun Feb 10, 2019 9:52 pm

Well, it's hard to say without actually hearing the problem. A bad mag pickup or a bad mag pickup signal will make the unit crank for less than a second and immediately shut down for an RPM Sense Loss fault.

The fuse is normally right in the harness with just the rubber cap exposed. It's normally right by the alternator area along that large wire loom.
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jahern2000
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Mon Feb 11, 2019 6:42 pm

Chris,
I checked the mag, it looked clean. The flywheel is rusty but noting crazy. I also checked the fuse and it was good.
I am stumped by the inspect battery on the display. The battery is new with 12.9V, as I mentioned the battery turns the engine over no problem when I bypass at the starter. Are there any other fuses or charging circuits I can look at?

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Chris
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Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:10 pm

Well, earlier you said low battery, but you mention inspect battery now. If it's inspect battery, that is a maintenance reminder and can be cleared by hitting enter twice. Low battery is another issue all together.
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jahern2000
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Mon Feb 11, 2019 8:37 pm

I tried to clear the Inspect battery with no luck. I saw a post on another site about a T1 fuse and removing the 7 amp controller fuse. It's odd, even when the 7 amp fuse is pulled the controller stays on. Is there a fuse or anything serviceable on the charger? Where is the charger located so I can check? One other thing I forgot to mention. The power did go out on the controller for a brief moment, when I pulled the controller 7 amp fuse the controller screen came back on. I reinstalled the 7amp fuse and tried manual start with no luck. I don't even hear the starter relay fire any more when I try manual start.
Chris
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Mon Feb 11, 2019 9:18 pm

The charger is integral to that controller, so really the only way to test is to monitor battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. After a crank cycle, the battery should start to rise due to the charger being active.

Yes, the panel will stay alive while the fuse is pulled, however it won't crank and if you try, you'll get an inspect battery error.

It almost sounds like you're chasing a bad connection somewhere... Could be a battery with a bad cell, bad cable, starter cable issues, etc.
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jahern2000
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Fri Feb 15, 2019 6:05 pm

I'm concerned because the control panel was blank at one point appearing to be off. I pulled the
7.5 amp fuse and the screen on the controller came back on. Since then, when I try a manual start
I don't even hear the starter relay click. Just says cranking but nothing happens at the starter. Could
the starter relay behind the controller be defective?

Regards
Chris
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Fri Feb 15, 2019 7:34 pm

It certainly could be. A quick and easy test would be to check the 2 small posts on the starter contactor for 12V when the controller says 'cranking'. This is easier done with a meter with alligator clips so you aren't running back and forth...
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